Sunday, September 21, 2008

Weekly Feature #2



B is for... BUDGET.

If, like most of us, you are on a budget, you need to plan carefully in order to have an elegant wardrobe, as you cannot afford to make (m)any mistakes. If you have unlimited wealth, you should also plan carefully, as expensive bad taste is usually twice as hideous as bad taste on limited funds, not to mention a sad waste of money.

But it is shopping within a strict budget which concerns us here. First things first: every season, decide what you really need, versus what you really want. It's a good idea to examine your current wardrobe in detail, and make your decisions accordingly. You may really want a new cashmere sweater, but upon examination, you may realize that you actually need a new suit for upcoming dressy events; or maybe your winter coat finally needs to be replaced. Make lists. Take inventory. Know exactly what you have, and what you need to add.

Also, I find it helpful to pick a particular color scheme which I intend to base all of that season's purchases around -- usually based on items I already have in my existing wardrobe. That snappy sport coat in black and white houndstooth may be calling your name, but if 99% of your existing fall wardrobe is, say, earth tones, that one sport coat is either going to sit in your closet all season, or force you to buy additional shirts, pants and shoes to go with it. And for heaven's sake, don't be a slave to "trends." Just because some overpaid stylist has decreed this or that item, or color, is the "must-have" of the season, if it doesn't work on you, or fit into your lifestyle's wardrobe, forget about it. (Remember: permanent elegance is always in style; fashion and trends are ephemeral.)

Especially in these economic times, buying a complete new wardrobe each season is far beyond the reach of most of us. This fall season, I'm actually not making any major new purchases, which is a first for me. But I am spending money on such things as wonderful ties and pocket squares (I'm loving the luxurious, admittedly pricey cashmere knit ties and pocket squares this season, in their luscious fall colors); they can really refresh your suits and sport coats. Don't underestimate their ability to make it seem as if you have a brand new outfit.

Also, when I can find inexpensive, yet well-made (and, more important, well-fitted) layering pieces like merino wool vests and sweaters, I snap them up: I've already added six such items to my fall wardrobe, each for less than $50, and they add color and dash underneath a sport coat or suit, or on their own. I refuse to cut corners on quality when it comes to important, investment items like suits, sport coats, or outerwear, but there's absolutely no reason to spend a ton of money on every single piece of your wardrobe.

It's also important to decide what kind of clothing you'll get the most use out of. If you wear a suit to work five days out of the week, you'll want to invest the larger portion of your budget into items that will pair well with your business wardrobe: immaculate dress shirts, probably a new pair of dress shoes each season, ties and pocket squares, etc. If you get away on weekends and love the brisk countryside, you may want to devote more of your budget towards, say, a beautifully knit cashmere sweater or two. If you simply live for jeans, you'll probably want to have an impeccably-cut new pair -- and then build your wardrobe around either dressing them up or down. It all depends on, again, what you need, and what your lifestyle is.

Finally, a word of caution about another "B", which ties into your budget: Bargains. Bargain-hunting is all well and good, when carefully considered. But buying something that doesn't fit into your wardrobe plan simply because it's on sale -- even if it's a "steal" and a quality piece of merchandise -- may not be a bargain at all; if it requires other purchases in order for it to become a workable part of your wardrobe, any savings on that one item have been negated. Similarly, buying a poorly-made piece of merchandise just to save a few dollars will cost you in the end. Buy the best quality that you can afford; and if that means going without something for a while, so be it. Better to save and wait, than to spend on something inferior. It will inevitably not please you as much as your actual desired object; it will undoubtedly not last in the long run, and require a replacement; and you will have spent hard-earned money on a poor fascimile when you could have saved it towards the Real McCoy.

8 comments:

  1. First who carries the cashmere ties?

    Have you considered a career as a men's fashion editor at a magazine?

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  2. 1) You can find them from Brooks Brothers all the way up to Bergdorf.

    2) Good heavens, I'd be an anachronism at a fashion magazine today.

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  3. It's like you're the male Genevieve Dariaux!
    (I love the alphabetical order, by the way.)

    Being poor, I need all the help I can get.
    Where in NY do you find the bargains?

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  4. Of course, j'adore Mme. Dariaux! (You'd also like "The Little Encyclopedia of Fashion," written in 1951/52 by Christian Dior.)

    You can find relative bargains at the usual suspects: Banana Republic, J. Crew, Zara, Club Monaco, Express, the Gap, etc. Also, end-of-season sales at, say, Saks or Bloomingdale's can yield surprisingly good results, if you have the patience to sift through the dross, and a keen eye.

    If someone has very little money to spend on clothes, I think it truly does pay to spend it all on one really great, high quality outfit and have it fitted perfectly -- then jazz it up with a different colored shirt, sweater, etc., to maintain interest and the illusion of many outfits. I'd much rather wear the same thing over and over again, confident in the knowledge that I look great, rather than have a lot of haphazard junk.

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  5. Like Jason again, being poor hampers my dandy aspirations. Living in the decidedly less than fashionable South I find that buying basic items out of season increases savings and value. I usually go in for clearance sales at the end of summer and winter. As you said watch out for bargains, one always gets me every time. I suppose it’s a little like going grocery shopping when hungry. So never go shopping for clothes when naked…

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  6. "...never go shopping for clothes when naked..."

    LOL.

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  7. I always buy 'winter' in January and 'summer' in July. Hey, Armani has to go on sale at some point, too. At 67% off, its B oth.

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  8. Living in LA now, I've lightened up my wardrobe - but the stores sell seasonal clothes, so you'll see hats, scarves and the like. I guess that was my excuse for buying cashmere gloves for (only!) $19 on land's end. Website sales are often a godsend - and saves money on gas! Sign up for coupons or free shipping deals.

    -A true spendthrift

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